Bonjour tout le monde!
Today marks 6 weeks since I moved to Paris.
It has been a whirlwind of non-stop activity since I arrived: getting my apartment set up, walking around the city to the tune of 15,000+ steps a day, making connections, going to film festivals, showing friends around the city, writing a lot… And, in all of that, my monkey mind somehow convinced me I wasn’t doing enough.
I have been so focused on getting myself installed in my new life and taking advantage of my new city, that I forgot one of the things I was most looking forward to…taking time to just BE.
A few days ago, my body said enough, and with the force of a hefty stomach flu, I took time to breathe. I can’t say that I’d recommend non-stop nausea as the sign to chill out, but it was the reset I needed.
After sleeping for no less than 18 hours two days in a row, I finally had the mental clarity to take stock of the accomplishments I have already achieved (like living in Paris, for example), find gratitude in everything that I have experienced so far, and reflect on everything I have learned in these past six weeks.
So, today, I present to you some of my favorite learnings of six weeks of living in Paris in the hopes that you find something useful from them as well!
Lunch time is very specific here. Unless specified as a “service continu” location, you will not find a restaurant serving lunch before 12:00 or past 2:30 PM. Also, if you do go to a service continu location outside of those hours, don’t be surprised if the restaurant is very empty. It’s not a comment on the quality of the food. You were just too distracted by the beautiful architecture that you lost track of time wandering the city and forgot you need to eat (no one I know).
Similarly, many cafés will be packed with people on sidewalk tables around 5:00 or 6:00 PM. This is not an indication that you’ve found a popular restaurant, but rather a great neighborhood bar for daily apèro (like happy hour, but better). Apèro is something of a ritual in Paris. Enjoy the great drink deals on alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages (note: it’s not the best quality wine, but you’re still in France), dodge cigarette smoke, and wind down from your day. Very rarely will people be eating. Dinner starts at 7:00 at the earliest (but no later than 10:30PM).
There are multiple boucheries, boulangeries, and primeurs (fruits and vegetables) on every street. Rather than competing with each other, they are all open and closed on different days to serve the neighborhood. So you’ll never have to go without your daily baguette.
You will have a daily baguette (or a baguette for every 2 days).
Know which marchés are when and where you buy what. Boulevard de Belleville (my street) has a big, BIG marché on Tuesdays and Fridays. Selling everything from household wares to baby clothes to produce to fish heads. It is PACKED. It is one of the cheaper markets in the city, and is perfectly sufficient for produce or packs of extra underwear. For a slightly calmer shopping experience, I prefer the Marché Popincourt, which has a better layout and higher quality products for not much more. There are still so many other markets farther afield that I cannot wait to explore.
Speaking of markets, the best deals on anything are at flea markets (brocantes or vide-greniers). My 3rd weekend in Paris, I went to a once-a-year market in my quartier, and I found the perfect black blazer, black pumps, and a BRAND NEW sweater from a quality brand, all for under 20€. At another market, I found beautiful vintage cups to organize my makeup brushes and lipstick at 4 for 1€. This is how I plan on decorating both my apartment and wardrobe. I’m still searching for the perfect leather jacket.
There is a scarf for every weather and they are called different things. Cold out? You might be looking for a basic écharpe to be wrapped around your neck or draped over your shoulders. Sunny day? A lighter material or silk carré (silk square scarf) will fit the bill. As long as your neck is covered, you are ready for a day in Paris. This is a singer’s dream.
The life of the citoyen (citizen) is very important here. As I wrote about in my last post, so many things are put on by the districts. There are free lectures, performances, employment forums, and many more activities. A French friend told me recently that the word “communité” can have a negative connotation sometimes (too much like a commune), which I find ironic because this is the most community-focused environment I’ve ever lived in.
Ever wanted to hang a beautiful piece of art in your house for just a little bit without paying for it (without committing grand theft)? Good news! You can. At an artotheque, you can check out art just like you would a book. Enjoy the beautiful work for a bit and then bring it back to get something new. Redecorate your house every month!
In many areas of the city on many days of the week, a metro at 11:30 PM is basically a rush hour train.
There is SO much to do here—and a lot of it for free! It’s so easy to get so swept up in all the city has to offer that it is important to rest. You’re not missing out on anything by taking a night (or two) off. In fact, it is necessary. Get rest so you can enjoy the city fully when you are feeling your best. Your body and mind will thank you.
À la prochaine!
— Melanie